The industry of RC has lots of different facets; there’s really something for everyone. One of many areas I’ve set my sights on mastering is definitely the drift segment. It basically is the opposite of everything I’ve learned in terms of driving sliding is better than grip, more power does not necessarily mean a faster vehicle and tire compounds, well, plastic surpasses rubber. When 3Racing sent over their SCX10 II, I had to scoop one around see what each of the hoopla was with this drifter.
WHO Can Make It: 3Racing
WHO IT’S FOR: Any measure of drift enthusiast
PART NUMBER: KIT-D4AWD
Simply How Much: $115.00
BUILD TYPE: Kit
• AWD for easy learning ?
• Narrow 3mm FRP chassis ?
• Wide, high-angle dual bellcrank steering ?
• Highly adjustable front, Y-arm suspension ?
• Battery positioning ahead of the motor or around the rear diffuser ?
• Aluminum motor mount ?
• Threaded shocks ?A great deal of tuning adjustment ?
• Extremely affordable pric
• Front drive belt slips off of the roller bearing
This drifter has a lot selecting it; well manufactured, a great deal of pretty aluminum and rolls in in a very economical price. Handling is nice at the same time when you get used to the kit setup, and it also accepts an incredibly great deal of body styles. There’s also a ton of tunability for individuals who like to tinker, so this car should grow together with you when your skills do.
The D4’s chassis is really a 3mm sheet of FRP, or Fiber-Reinforced Plastic. It provides cutouts on the bottom for your front and rear diffs to peek through and also a bazillion countersunk holes. Many of these are used for mounting stuff like the bulkheads, servo and battery box, but you will find several left empty. They are often used to control chassis flex, however, not with all the stock top deck; an optional you must be found. The layout is similar to a typical touring car; front bulkhead/ suspension, steering system, electronics, battery box, motor mount system and lastly the rear bulkhead/ suspension. Everything is easily accessible and replaceable with only a few turns of some screws.
? Apart from a few interesting pieces, a drifter’s suspension is nearly the same as a touring car’s. One particular A and D mount and separate B and C mounts are employed, both having dual support screws and stamped, metal shims to increase them up. The suspension arms have droop screws, anti-roll bar mounts and adjustable wheelbase shims. The back suspension uses vertical ball studs to handle camber and roll whilst the front uses an interesting, dual pickup front Y-arm setup. This technique allows the adjustment of camber, caster and roll and swings smoothly on upper and lower pivot balls. It’s actually quite unique and provides for some extreme camber settings.
? One important thing that’s pretty amazing with drift cars is definitely the serious volume of steering throw they may have. Starting with the bellcranks, they’re positioned as far apart so when next to the edges of your chassis as possible. This results in a massive 65° angle, enough to manipulate the D4 in even the deepest of slides. Since drifters spend the majority of their time sideways, I wanted a good servo to keep up with the constant countersteering enter Futaba’s S9551 Low-Pro? le Digital Servo.
Although it is not needing anything near its 122 oz. of torque, the .11 speed is de? nitely enough to take care of any steering angle changes I want it a moment’s notice.
? The D4 works with a dual belt design, spinning a front, fluid-filled gear differential and rear spool. An enormous, 92T 48P spur is coupled to the central gear shaft, where the front and rear belts meet. Pulleys keep the front belt high on top of the chassis, and 3mm CVDs transfer the ability for the wheels. Standardized 12mm hexes are included to allow the use of a number of different wheel and tire combos.
? To offer the D4 a bit of beauty, I prefered 3Racing Mini-Z parts body from ABC Hobby. It is a beautiful replica with this car and included a slick list of decals, looking fantastic once mounted. I wasn’t sure the best way to paint it, having said that i do remember a technique I used a little while back that got a bit of attention. So, I gave the RX-3 a try of pearl white in the underside, but painted the fenders black on the outside. After everything was dry, I shot the outer by using a coat of Tamiya Flat Clear. I like the very last result … and it was easy. That’s good because I’m an extremely impatient painter!
ON THE TRACK
For this test, I needed the privilege of putting this four-wheel drifter down on the iconic Tamiya track in Aliso Viejo, CA. I had been heading there to perform a picture shoot for another vehicle and thought, heck, why not take it along and acquire some sideways action?
The steering in the D4 is very amazing. Because I mentioned earlier, the throw is really a whopping 65 degrees with zero interference from any parts. Even the CVD’s can turn that far, allowing smooth input of power at full lock. Even though it does look a little bit funny with the tires turned that far (remember, I’m a touring car guy), the D4 does a wonderful job of keeping the slide controlled and transferring the proper direction. This can be, partly, due to the awesome handling from the D4, but the speedy Futaba servo.
Drifting will not be about overall speed but wheel speed controlled. I understand that sounds odd, but once you’ve mastered the wheel speed of your own drifter, you are able to control the angle of attack along with the sideways motion through any corner. I came across Novak’s Drift Spec system allowed me to perform that make controlled, smooth throttle alterations in affect the angle from the D4 where and when I needed. Sliding inside a little shallow? Increase the amount of throttle to obtain the tail end to whip out. Beginning to over cook the corner? Ease up somewhat and also the D4 would get back in line. It’s all a matter of ? nesse, and also the Novak system is for just that. I did must be just a little creative together with the install of the system on account of small space in the chassis, but overall it figured out great.
After driving connected touring cars for some time, it can do go on a little becoming accustomed to knowing that an automobile losing grip and sliding is the right way round the track. It’s also good practice for managing throttle control as soon as you get it, it’s beautiful. Getting a car and pitching it sideways through a sweeper, while keeping the nose pointed in at less than several inches from your curb … it’s actually very rewarding. It’s a controlled out of hand thing, along with the D4 would it wonderfully. The kit setup is nice, but if you are like you need more of something anything there’s lots of things to adjust. I actually enjoyed the vehicle together with the kit setup and it was just dependent on a battery pack or two before I had been swinging the back around the hairpins, throughout the carousel and to and fro with the chicane. I never had a chance to strap battery in the diffuser, but that’s something I’m looking towards.
There’s not a whole lot you can do to damage a drift car they’re not really going all of that fast. I have done, however, provide an issue with the front side belt’s bearing pulley mounted to the peak deck. In the initial run, it suddenly felt such as the D4 acquired just a little drag brake. I kept by using it, seeking to overcome the issue with driving, but soon were required to RPM Team losi parts it into actually check it out. Throughout the build, the belt slips in a plastic ‘tunnel’ that is certainly maintained by a bearing, keeping it above any chassis mounted things like the ESC or servo. The belt, though, doesn’t sit square about the bearing; it’s half on and half off. So, if the drivetrain is spooling up, the belt will sometimes slide off of the bearing, ?opping around and catching on anything it comes in touch with. To ?x this, I simply 3raccingSakura a prolonged screw with several 1mm shims to space the bearing out a bit more. Problem solved.